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Company of Saint Sebastian kit and equipment standards (continued)



Doublets and gowns


Made from heavily felted wool and lined with either silk or linen, the doublet was an essential item - not only necessary to hold up the 'hose' but also to enable the wearer meet standards of attire. People were expected to be wearing at least three layers of fabric when in public - a shirt counted as the first layer, and the doublet, by its very nature, the remaining two. The doublet was essentially a snugly fitting, short jacket, lightly padded at the shoulders and pointed along the waist-line. It could be worn under a gown or outwardly on both formal and informal occasions. Generally fastened with hooks and eyes or pairs of points at the front - unless the wearer was wealthy and could afford to have buttons made.

The Group standard is for the plain design, tailored to the waist (as depicted in period art references) and not the alternative, skirted version which was also commonplace.



Image: Tips

You will need 4 metres of heavily felted wool and linen.

You will need to cut your pattern from both linen and wool - repeating each stage in both fabrics.

Cut the front panels, back panels and sleeves from wool.

Sew the left and right back panels together at the centre.

Sew the front panels to the back section at the top of the shoulders. Keeping the fabric inside out, fold over and stitch the sides of the front panels to the back.

Individually stitch the sleeves along their long edges.

Attach the sleeves, incorporating pleats around the shoulders.

Roll two squares of wool into 'croissant' or coit shapes to use as shoulder padding. Affix these to the inside of the shoulders

Line the inside of the doublet with the linen duplicate.

Cut out a collar and stitch the segments together. Repeat with linen. Stitch the two collar s together along three of their edges and turn the fabric through the remaining edge.

Stitch collar to doublet.

Hem any unstitched edges and add pairs of points at regular intervals around the base.

Use hooks and eyes, pairs of points or buttons (dependent on status) to fasten the doublet at the front.


Making a doublet


Illustration WW Forsythe, 2009


We will be including pictures here shortly   Gowns

Gowns are warm, woollen garments worn as outer-wear. They are heavily felted and lined with linen, silk or even fur - dependent on status. They vary from thigh-length, to knee-length, to full-length and can be thinly trimmed with fur - Sumptuary Laws permitting!

Fastened with hooks and eyes (or buttons) to the waist. A belt is then applied and excess fabric gathered into neat pleats.



Image: Tips


Making a gown

We will be including pictures here shortly

We're sorry that this section is currently under construction. We hope to bring you updated content shortly.





Commission of Array
Archery & Archers' Equipment
Armour & Sallets
Padded Jacks & Arming Doublets
Pole Arms & Hand Held Weapons
Doublets & Gowns
Livery Coats
Shirts & Other Linen Garments
Joined & Single Leg Hose
Belts, Pouches & Accessories
Boots & Other Footwear
Hats & Headgear
Miscellaneous Other Items
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This site was designed by WW Forsythe and is Company of Saint Sebastian, 2009. All photographs and other artwork are property of their respective owners, used with permission and credited accordingly.